The tradition and cultural significance of Japanese kimono garments is the subject of an exhibit currently on display at the Chico State’s Anthropology Museum. Most of the kimonos in the exhibit came from the collection of Chico State instructor Dr. Masami Toku.
The Valene L. Smith Museum of Anthropology is a public space that is free for anyone to visit. It is on the bottom floor of Meriam Library and is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
Seven years ago, Masami Toku sat down with her mother, Taeko Toku (1932-2020), to discuss what they should do with their collection of dozens of kimonos. They decided the best use of the collection was to increase awareness of the role the kimono has played in Japanese culture, Masami said.
Dr. April Kamp-Whittaker is an assistant professor in the Department of Anthropology who primarily teaches museum studies and archeology classes.
“Kimonos really tell a story of someone’s life, but they also tell a story of tradition and ideas,” she said.
Since western culture and eastern culture have continuously intertwined, it is important to remember how culture and traditions have changed over the last century, said Masami. She expressed how overjoyed she was with the opportunity to share an element of traditional Japanese culture that was so important to her mother.
Taeko did not follow the traditional path that most women from her generation were expected to follow. After marriage, Taeko stayed in the workforce to help support both her and her husband’s families. She was focused on creating the capital that would allow her siblings and children to pursue higher education, Masami said.
Kimonos can be expensive, and many families would rent them for special occasions. Toku’s ability to purchase kimonos for her family was an important part of her independence, Masami said.
Dr. William Nitzky is the Anthropology Museum director. He speaks Japanese and has traveled to Japan many times. Eastern cultures make up a large part of his scholarly focus.
Museums around the world tend to focus on the artistry and beauty of kimonos. They don’t unpack what the symbols on the kimonos can represent culturally, Nitzky said. He wanted to focus on bringing a level of cultural awareness that could be difficult for an American audience to grasp.
The exhibit includes videos to provide cultural context and to show how kimonos are made. There are also kimonos for visitors to try on to experience how they were traditionally worn.
The kimono can be a symbolic representation of the progression of a person’s life. There are standard designs, but the design specifics that one may choose are dependent upon different aspects.
They range from the occasion, the season, the location in Japan and the age and gender of the wearer, as well as many other potential elements, according to Masami and Nitzky.
“Unfolded” was put together by the anthropology 467 class from the 2024 spring semester. Dr. Nitzky noted that much more than research goes into each exhibit.
“We had a few individuals researching weddings in kimonos. We had others that were researching the seasons, but that is just one element,” he said, “We as a class collectively decided on the design of the entire space.”
They make sure to bring in at least one cultural expert for each exhibit. The collaborative aspect of the work is important, Dr. Nitzky said.
It is always part of doing thorough museum work, and it allows for the dynamic nature of a public-facing museum with the priority of creating a teaching environment, he said.
Sean Shanks can be reached at [email protected].